July 2019 | |
Aran Benllyn(885m) | |
May 2021 | |
Trum y Gwrgedd(612m) | |
Foel Goch(613m) | |
Llechwedd Du(614m) | |
Pen yr Allt Uchaf(620m) | |
Moel y Cerrig Duon (625m) | |
Foel y Geifr (626m) | |
Gawain Lydan(632m) | |
Foel Rudd(659m) | |
Esgeiriau Gwynion(671m) | |
Pen y Bryn-fforchog (685m) | |
Gawain Llwyn(685m) | |
Glasgwm(779m) | |
Erw y Ddafad ddu(872m) | |
Aran Benllyn(885m) | |
Aran Fawddwy(905m) | |
October 2022 | |
Foel Hafod-fynydd(689m) |
Peaks climbed : Aran Benllyn (885m)
Total Distance : 13km, Total Ascent : 724m
Starting in the small village of Llanuwchllyn which is only marginally easier to spell than to say, I parked in the National Park Car Park (free) at the top end of the village and, walking back towards the village a short way, followed the public footpath sign which took me through a small wooded area and into an open field. The mountain ridge lay dead ahead and following the obvious path was soon heading in an upward direction. The weather deteriorated slowly, requiring me to add a mid-layer and windproof to keep out the cold.
Not much is needed in the way of navigation - the path follows the obvious ridge steadily gaining height past various minor peaks heading for the first big one; Aran Benllyn. Having had a tough previous couple of days in Snowdonia, my legs were quite sore, and coupled with steadily worsening weather and the likelihood of little or no view on the summit, plus any one of a dozen or so feeble excuses I decided that Benllyn would be the one and only significant peak of the day. Consoling myself with the fact that it was just shy of 3,000 feet I considered it a result to be on the top. Actually the top was one of those really frustrating places. Visibility was about 20m and every little lump looked like the summit until I got there, checked my altimeter and realised in fact, it wasn't the actual top. Finally I did locate the real top. I was right about the lack of view and thoroughly disgruntled I turned around and headed down as quickly as my tired legs would let me.
On the way down I stopped for a quick lunch as by now light rain was beginning to blow across the landscape and I didn't really want to put on waterproofs as well as the layers I already had. Soon enough I was back at the car park preparing to leave. The Arans have an appeal and is somewhere I'll definitely return to - there are a lot of peaks to bag and the access is pretty straightforward and some miles further South than the main Snowdonia playground, considerably quieter but yet some good looking mountains to climb.
I'd realised some years ago that I'd never climbed the Aran Mountain range, so set about changing that with an ascent of Benllyn on a Snowdonia weekend as described above. Due to general fatigue and other excuses, that was it.
Fast forward to 2021 and the emergence from the CoronaVirus lockdown. Armed with a Peaky plan, I organised a weekend which would see them all bagged. Somewhat optimistic, but achievable I felt.
Peaks climbed : Pen y Bryn-fforchog (685m)
Total Distance : 4.4km, Total Ascent : 541m
Driving up on the May Bank holiday, I pulled into the car park at the top of the pass between Dinas Mawddy and Dolgellau. Dressing in the car as the rain was coming down hard. Did I really want this? Of course I did!
Setting off was a major shock to the legs with a very steep ascent onto the ridge line. Blowing hard, I was pleased to reach easier ground and the first minor hill. Even with the rain, I could see my destination a mile or so distant; Pen y Bryn Fforchog (685m). It was still up, obviously, but nowhere near as steep as that from the road. Rain came near horizontal but I pushed on, keen to bag my first peak of the weekend. Soon enough I was stood on top, admiring the lack of a view!
Not wanting to be out in the rain any longer than necessary, I took a couple of photos and headed back down more or less retracing my steps, although I took a shallower descent back down the final slope.
At just 4.4km round trip, it was a short day but rewarding. Thankfully I'd chosen to come in the car as my gear was soaked, although my Rohan trousers did a fine job keeping the rain out. I think the Paramo jacket did well too, the dampness in my T-Shirt was probably sweat.
I got to the campsite mid-afternoon, by which of course, the rain had stopped. This was good news because it meant I could get my tent put up in the dry. Annoying as well because if I'd done the walk later, it might have been dry. Oh well, welcome to Wales.
A friend of mine, Chris who I'd met in Nepal a few years ago joined me later, on his first ever Welsh Mountains walking trip! With the ambitious plan I had, there's nothing like jumping in at the deep end, but he is plenty fit enough to do it.
Peaks climbed : Moel y Cerrig Duon (625m), Foel y Geifr (626m), Trum y Gwrgedd (612m), Foel Goch (613m), Foel Rudd (659m), Esgeiriau Gwynion (671m), Llechwedd Du (614m)
Total Distance : 23km, Total Ascent : 900m
We got an early start so were parked up and ready to go by about 8:30. The first Peak; Moel y Cerrig Duon was a mere 30 minutes walk and we were soon stood on the summit. We both realised that walking in waterproofs against the drizzle was pointless as we were getting far too warm so off they came.
This was a decision point. The next three peaks were some distance away over terrain with no marked footpaths. Should we go for it, or drive round later to bag them from a closer point. Of course we had to go for them and so set off on what would turn out to be super hard walking terrain! Not only were there no paths, but the ground was like walking through treacle combined with high heather. Leg sapping is an understatement but we persevered. A few route choices were discussed along the way and eventually we crested Foel y Geifr and the only trig point of the day. It had taken over an hour and a half to get to this peak, so two hours in and two peaks conquered. The next two were obvious and on a vague track we climbed Trum y Gwrgedd and Foel Goch. Unfortunately there was no realistic alternative to retracing our steps back to Geifr, from where we headed off to the next set. Now this was going to be another long slog but aiming for the main Arans ridge in the distance at least we could follow a direct route.
Finally we began to descend to the road and valley that was the crossing point to the next set of peaks. It was 1pm so we decided lunch was in order, especially as after lunch it would be downhill for a bit.
Lunch done and we descended to the road. We could see the car, which was parked about a mile and a half up the road, but it would be some considerable time before we got there. Along the road a little before picking up a small path which led down to a farm and lots of gates, all tied up with string! Passage through the farm took longer than it should and we had a brief pause whilst Chris went back to look for his hat which he was convinced had been dropped, until he realised he was wearing it!
Eventually we started our big climb. The ascent of Foel Rudd was long and hard with no breaks and lots of false summits, but we finally arrived at the small stick that signified the summit - no expense spared here.
Onward we had Esgeiriau Gwynion in our sights and soon arrived. It wasn't much of a climb, but on non-existent, or at best indistinct paths it was still a good pull.
This was make your mind up time. Foel Hafod-fynydd was next but there was a huge descent and ascent to get to its summit. We could also see another similar descent and ascent onto the final peak. We decided to give it a miss. Our legs were tired and we had serious doubts about finishing should we go for it.
Cutting across we made good progress onto Llechwedd Du giving us just one mile back to the car. The mountains hadn't finished with us yet! The walk back involved negotiating one peat bog after another, climbing in, crossing and climbing out, some were okay, others very boggy. Legs were not at all happy and I'm pretty sure my knees will never speak to me again. Finally we reached the car, very tired from the day, but chuffed that we had done it.
Peaks climbed : Glasgwm (779m), Gawain Llwyn (685m), Aran Fawddwy (905m), Erw y Ddafad ddu (872m), Aran Benllyn (885m), Gawain Lydan (632m), Pen yr Allt Uchaf (620m)
Total Distance : 23km, Total Ascent : 1266m
The weather promised to be great for the whole day. Leaving waterproof leggings and spare top out of the rucsac took some willpower but it was done. Notice no mention of waterproof jacket. Even though no rain was forecast and there were no clouds and a light wind, we couldn't bring ourselves to leave them behind. The drive out took about 30 minutes to the small car park at Cwm Cywarch. Even arriving at 8:30am as we did, we weren't first by any means, but no worries, there was plenty of room.
As we walked out, our plan was an anti-clockwise tour, we quickly ran into a problem. The bridge we'd planned to cross had a big 'No Entry' sign. Oh dear. I suggested that it didn't actually matter which direction we did the route, so we continued on with Glasgwm.
It's a steep climb up to the ridge, requiring several 'photo stops'. Once there, we turned left to the peak ahead. More seriously steep and hard climbing including several rocky and scree like climbs which hurt the legs before finally cresting to the summit which suddenly comes into view.
Resting for a drink and to admire the views, we were amazed just how clear the day was, not a cloud in the sky and a gentle breeze to keep us from overheating.
Of course we had to retrace our steps back down which proved every bit as hard as the ascent and we were pleased to be on level ground.
Unlike yesterday, there were good paths we could follow apart from a slight detour to bag peak number 2; Gawain Llwyn but we were soon back on the main ascent path.
Aran Fawddwy has several false summits and a rocky final few metres but we arrived to have the peak to ourselves for a while which was nice.
The views were spectacular and we could see the entire rest of the days walking and a lot of yesterdays too.
Finally we had to leave and headed along the ridge to the next peak; Erw y Ddafad ddu which was dispatched quickly as it is not much more than a rise.
Here we had a decision; continue to Benllyn or turn back. I'd already done that peak so it was optional, but we figured we'd never forgive ourselves if we missed it and it was only a short distance so off we went.
Benllyn was well worth it! Sat on the summit eating our lunch we could see Bala Lake ahead of us and to the North West, the Ogwen Valley and Snowdon! Behind us we could see the Barmouth Estuary and the sea! I don't think I've ever been able to see that far in Wales - ever!
Finally of course we had to leave and retrace our steps back along the ridge. Luckily we didn't need to go back over the summit of Fawddwy but skirted around, then crossed over so that we could see the descent down to Drysgol which we both remarked sounded an awful lot like something out of Lord of the Rings. A summit cairn had an inscription dedicated to a mountain rescue person who was killed by lightning on that spot. Sobering thought.
Drysgol doesn't count as a separate peak as really, it is the lower slopes of Fawddwy rather than a mountain in its own right, but someone sympathetic to its aspirations obviously took pity and gave it a name.
Our next summit was the rather less impressive Gwaun Lydan which, at a lowly 632m only just made it into the 2000' book anyway. That dispatched, we set off for our final climb onto Pen yr Allt Uchaf via Waun Goch. It was a fairly gentle rise up to the summit, marked by a white stone and a few sticks. The views across to the main ridge were impressive by any standards.
Descent all the way now! We followed the line down until bearing left on a contour to join the descent path. This was a very long and tiring descent, seeming to go on forever until we finally came to the valley and even then, getting back to the car seemed to be via a circuitous route. We did conclude however, that despite it being a long and tiring descent, was much more preferable to climbing Glasgwm and then descending down the first climb of the day.
Peaks climbed : Foel Hafod-fynydd (689m)
Total Distance : 10km, Total Ascent : 410m
Parking in a small car park about 6 miles from Lake Vyrnwy at the top of the pass between Dinas Mawddwy and Llyn Tegid I set off across the huge bog that is known as Llechwedd Du. The rain was heavy and got heavier, combined with low cloud meant that it was not the nicest of starts, but the route was pretty straightforward, following the fence as best as possible until the turn and then make a decision on whether to skirt around the big drop or man-up and descend to the path below and find a route up Hafod.
A meandering and at times frustrating walk, zig-zagging around the deeper bogs eventually I arrived at the decision point. The rain had more or less stopped and the cloud lifted enough for me to see my route choices. I figured that the roundabout route would be just as tough as I remembered it from last time, there was no path and in the dry conditions of last summer it was hard going. I'd descend to the path and look for a way up Hafod.
As it turned out, the descent wasn't too bad and I was soon on a good path skirting round the foot of Hafod. Spotting a fence that headed directly up I decided to walk over to that and make my way up. Stopping to remove a layer, I began the climb. To say it was tough was an understatement, no path and about 60 degrees made for a leg-sapping ascent, requiring a couple of stops on the way before I reached the final ridge up to the summit. The gradient eased dramatically, but there was still some climbing to be done before I reached the top, or did I? There were two summits, the first looking a little lower than the second - don't they all? Off to the second summit to guarantee success.
The reward was excellent views all around, especially the huge and imposing Aran Fawddwy some 200m higher than my summit. I stopped for a short while but the wind had picked up and it was a chill wind, so I elected to head off and find some shelter for lunch.
Retracing my steps but this time taking a direct route back to Llechwedd Du I started the big descent. It didn't look too bad but as I descended, so it grew to tower over me. About half way down, it was lunchtime so I found the best shelter I could and stopped. After lunch we headed down to the cross path and began the ascent, another steep climb, but not as bad as Hafod and I was soon past the worst. I'd been on the summit point before, but decided to detour to the small cairn to bag it again. The final couple of miles were back across the boggy ground following the fence. The car park doesn't come into view until the very last minute so the anticipation of the arriving destination never happens, but it is a welcome sight cresting the final rise to drop into the car park.
The Arans group is now complete, in fact the whole of mid-Wales is now complete so I can turn my attention to the remaining peaks in North Wales, but that will probably be 2023 now.