UK Mountains Expedition Report

I'd wanted to revisit Scotland for some time and I'd also wanted to refresh my winter skills using an ice axe and crampons. Jagged Globe offer a course called 'Winter Summits'. That sounded ideal. I'd tried ice climbing in the past and decided it was not for me, it was either desperate climbing or standing around freezing, so I signed up for the Winter Summits instead which promised to get us onto some Munros in winter. Yes we would use ice axes and yes, we would use crampons and maybe at times we'd be roped up, but for the majority of the time it was walking, albeit on steep snowy and at times, icy ground.

We met at the Ballachulish Hotel at the Western end of Glen Coe on the Sunday evening. Having arrived mid-afternoon, I had plenty of time to look around and first impressions were very good. It's a classic hotel in all respects, right from the open fires, to the decor and furniture in the lounge, right up to the old staircase which creaks and moans as you ascend - there is no sneaking around this hotel! My room was spacious and comprehensive, perfect for a week in the highlands.

Sunday evening we all got together to be welcomed by Ed Chard from JG who outlined the week ahead. I hadn't realised prior to this that there were several courses taking place at the same time as ours. There was an introductory course, a climbing course and a winter mountaineering course all vying for attention.

Once the initial introductions had taken place, we separated into our individual groups to take a more in depth look at the week ahead. The group that I was in comprised several that I knew from Turkey; Carolyn and Mark, Steve and Misba. In addition, there were three others; Dave, Simon and Matt. Our main instructor Mark, ably assisted by Ella ran through the program for the week but were keen to emphasise that it was 'our' course so if there was anything in particular we wanted to cover, then we should let them know. Mark suggested we downloaded a few 'apps' to our phones which would prove valuable during the week. A couple I already had, like the OS Locate and the Met Office apps, but others were new to me, particularly the avalanche awareness app.

That done, we headed off for dinner. A word about the food, it is amazing! The dinner is three courses and three good courses, breakfast is hot or cold 'eat as much as you want' or for one or two in our group, that was translated to 'eat as much as you possibly can'. We were also provided with lunch packs comprising two rolls and a flapjack that probably contained an illegal amount of calories!

Day one, we headed up Glen Coe to climb Stop Coire nan Lachan, an excellent Munro. The weather was very non-typical with the sun shining and temperatures rather warmer than we had expected. Many were stripped down to T-shirts very early on until quite high up. The learning started early with advice on crampon use, axe and pole use and some observations about the snow conditions so that we could begin to make assessments of our own as to the conditions.

Even though it had been warmer rather than colder, my main learning point for the day was to be prepared for a variety of conditions, whether that was too warm or too cold. I also started looking at the snow with a different pair of eyes, yes, it's the white stuff that we make snowmen with but also it's the stuff of avalanches, and comes in different forms, wet and dry, firm and soft. For me, another reminder was that Munros are big mountains, they take some climbing and you can expect to be out for five or six hours just to scale one of them.

Tonights meal was spectacular and we all left the table feeling very fat.

Day two and the weather was completely different. Heavy rain first thing delayed our start by mutual consent but eventually we set off up Glen Coe to the car park for our second mountain: Stob Coire Raineach. Heading off, it became quickly apparent that it was going to be a very windy day with extremely strong gusts. Our guides tutored us in the best ways of dealing with it - use poles and lean in until the gust dies down. This became a frequent activity on the way up to the col.

About half way up, we started to encounter snow but elected to leave crampons in the bag until we got to the col. A few minutes stop turned into a longer stop whilst the team managed themselves getting into harnesses, crampons, additional warm clothes and grabbing food and drink. Eventually we set off, but it became apparent that a few team members were so light, the wind, which had now reached 50-60mph would be a danger, so the team split into two with Mark taking three down whilst Ella took the remaining five to the summit. As a result of additional lard, I was one of the summitteers, the wind wasn't going to shift me! Ironically, it calmed down considerably on the top.

Returning to the col, we spent a happy 45 minutes or so all mucking in to build a snow shelter and were amazed how long it took to create something that took just two people comfortably and three at a push. That done, we headed down in worsening weather, but improving terrain back to the van. An inspired decision was made to stop at the local cafe and gift shop for coffee and cake before returning to the hotel.

The evening meal was, once again, huge and we all left the table feeling very fat.

Day 3 was a drive up to Glen Nevis for an ascent of Stob Ban. I decided to take my own car as I hadn't been feeling too well. Arriving at the small car park, we geared up and headed off. The walk in is a long one on mostly good terrain, following a good path. The snowline was high today so it was quite late on that we needed to add crampons and axes. Climbing up to the col was a steep final section and we were pleased to arrive. As I'd not been feeling 100%, I decided that would do. A couple of others also decided that would do for their day so the group split with some electing to continue to the summit, whilst the rest of us descended. The views around were a little limited by the cloud base but what we could see was impressive.

The descent if anything, seemed longer than the walk in. I'd not eaten much so requested a lunch stop to refuel. We were now below the snow line but even so it was quite chilly so we didn't stay too long. The remainder of the walk was in showery damp conditions and we were pleased to arrive back at the car.

An early bath but I was happy with that and enjoyed a good soak and relax before doing battle with dinner.

Meall a Bhuiridh is best accessed from the Glen Coe ski centre. Unfortunately, but not surprisingly due to the wind, the lifts were not operating so we had no choice but to walk, initially on a tarmac road, then onto snow covered paths. The day was windy from the start, blowing snow around, but it wasn't particularly wet snow and whilst moving, didn't feel particularly cold. The summit itself was nothing special and we soon departed for the lower slopes. On the way down, we enjoyed a teaching moment, looking at buried axe belays and snow bollards, useful tools for the armoury against the snow and conditions. Back at the car park, we enjoyed a break in the cafe before returning to the hotel.

Today saw the best weather of the week as we headed over to the Nevis range ski area. This time we were in luck, the gondolas were running which made the ascent of the first 600 metres as simple and painless as possible. Once up there we headed off into the snow, not needing our crampons for a while. It was a warm day and I felt over dressed so at the crampon stop I removed my outer shell layers but within 20 minutes had to put on the jacket again as the wind had picked up. The leggings could stay off.

Aonach Mor is a huge plateau and once the hard work of gaining it was over, it was a pleasant walk across. The views of Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis were super impressive as was the whole of the Scottish vista. It was a pleasure to be there. After reaching the summit cairn we headed off in the direction of Aonach Beg but quickly realised we would not achieve it in the time frame. 1pm was our turn around time to give us ample time to get back to the top gondola station before it closed - walking down would have been depressing. We made it in plenty of time, even having the opportunity for a teaching moment on navigation skills, something most of us don't use, preferring to rely on moving maps and other electronic devices.

The ride down was pleasant, as was the final coffee and cake in the cafe before returning to the hotel.

Quite a few were leaving so we said our farewells, others were staying the extra night, preferring a steady start on the Saturday morning. The evening meal was a cut-down set of climbers and we chatted to others on different courses about their experiences. Everyone was very positive about the courses and very positive about their aspirations of returning to Scotland or venturing further afield.

Even though it wasn't a teaching course per se, I came away feeling I had learned quite a lot. I was more aware of snow types than before, I'd refreshed my crampon walking style and the use of an axe. I'd reaquainted myself with the timescales required to ascend Scottish Munros and finally, after much good natured ribbing, had finally come to terms with the fact that my helmet, harness and gaiters should be consigned to the rubbish bin of life due to their age, which in all cases, was older than some of the other team members! I might agree with the helmet and harness, but I have a new found affection for the gaiters - my trousers were spotless at the end of the week.