UK Mountains Expedition Report

As a boy, I lived in Birmingham, so any opportunity to escape to the great outdoors was eagerly taken. My Uncle, to whom I will be eternally grateful, introduced me to the world of walking and climbing. One of our favourite weekends away was to drive up to Derbyshire to walk Dovedale and the Manifold Valley. I first went there in 1968, at which time, it was a major outing. These days, access is much easier.

Dovedale is about 5 miles North of the beautiful town of Ashbourne, the starting point for many excursions into the Peak District including the Tissington Trail, which will be the subject of a future report.

Park up at the car-park (£3 will buy you a day-ticket) at the head of Dovedale itself in the shadow of Thorpe Cloud. In the old days, any route up was fine, but after years of erosion the allowable paths were, for a time, limited by fencing. That limitation has now been removed after the successful self-repair of the eroded areas. From the summit, one has a wonderful view all around. I have climbed it from all sides, including the very steep side starting at the river (Dove) below. This is not for the faint hearted, nor is it recommended in wet weather as the rock, being limestone, becomes very slippery and a fall here could be extremely serious.

Whichever route is chosen, descent is easiest on the South East side, but can be done on the North Side which heads down to the Stepping Stones and into Dovedale proper. The stepping stones have been in place for well over 100 years. A visit to the National Trust Centre at Ilam shows photos that confirm this.

Being along the river, the path always stays low, never becoming too steep and so is suitable for people of all fitness levels, although there are some rocky sections so wheeled transport may be impeded. Of course, claiming it is flat is a relative term, and one I am always being 'told off' for. The path does, in fact go up and down, but not by much. The first 'up' bit is to Lovers Leap where one can view the 12 apostles opposite. I have never managed to see more than 9, so there may be some artistic license at work here.

Continuing along one passes Tissington Spires, Reynards Cave and Lion Rock before arriving at the impressive Ilam rock - appearing to be a pillar from this side, it is somewhat disappointing from the far side, being just another lump of weathered limestone. Rock Climbing ascents of the steep side include some 'E' graded climbs which are not to be undertaken lightly.

From here, one can either continue along Dovedale to Dove Holes and beyond, or cross the river and head up to Stanshope and beyond to the Manifold Valley. Continuing along the Dove, the next point of interest is Dove Holes where bolts and tat give away the scene of some strenuous roof climbing.

It is a very peaceful walk, one I have done many times in varied conditions and I always enjoy arriving at Milldale. Here, refreshments can be had from Pollys cottage (open every day in the summer but limited in winter - take provisions just in case) before either retracing ones footsteps or better still, walking up to Wetton for lunch at the Royal Oak. A nice way over to Wetton follows a path immediately to the right of the shelter then back along the Dove for a while until Ravens Tor is reached. This path can be very slippery when wet, so care should be taken. An inclined path leads up to the base of Ravens Tor, itself of interest to Rock Climbers with a wide range of grades.

Follow the path over the top and head perpedicular to the Dove, keeping high. Looking South (left), Hall Dale can be seen which is the route up from Ilam Rock. Eventually the high path is forced left and down to meet up with the rising Hall Dale and followed into Stanshope, a pleasant 'one-horse' village with no opportunity for refreshment, but fear not, Wetton is not too far distant. Crossing fields and two small lanes on well-marked paths, eventually Wetton is arrived at where refreshments are readily available at the very pleasant pub - walkers are welcome, but boots are requested to be removed if walking on the carpet - essential if you need the loo!

For a circular tour, head for Thors Cave (GR 099 552), but signposted when leaving Wetton (turn left out of the pub and follow the road around the church) and the Manifold valley. The cave itself is huge and boasts the biggest cave aid-climb in the UK. It is well worth a tour inside but beware the slippery entrance-made so by years of booted feet scrambling inside. Some thoughtful soul added a rope to help some years ago, but that has now disappeared, so you are on your own and it is far easier to get in than it is to get out!

Head down to the valley and take a look up. It is here that the best view of the cave can be obtained. As a young undergraduate, I climbed the right hand side of the entrance, a superb VS 4c route called 'Starlight'. I would not dare to repeat it and were it not for the fact that I have photos to prove it, I might doubt that I actually ever climbed it!

On the bridge there is an information board telling the reader that Thors Cave was once an underwater reef South of the Equator which is quite mind blowing. The River Manifold disappears below ground here into Swallow Holes during parts of the year, but reappears further up and down flowing gently along.

Our route takes us in a Southerly direction to the road bridge. Sadly we must follow the road across the bridge and out of the valley. A stiff climb, initially on a direct path, but then onto the road brings rewards with a fine view to the South and the Manifold valley and river below. Take the path on the right just after a steep section and cross a number of fields, keeping high, eventually arriving at Castern Hall, a large country house. Our route follows the driveway down, crossing a field at an obvious gate to the bottom. Bear left down the hill rather than taking the straight line and on reaching the road, turn left. Straight on will lead to a small bridge over the river, also turn left here and continue until reaching a cottage on the right hand side. The path used to go through their back-garden but it has been re-routed so now walk past the cottage and immediately go through the gate. Technically this is still the garden but less intrusive than it used to be. There is a donation box as it is claimed that the footpath is 'concessionary' and they are doing walkers a favour. The truth is that there has always been a footpath here and it is we who are doing them a favour by allowing the re-routing - you can't just close or change a public footpath just because you don't like it - fortunately. Continue on and into the huge grounds of Ilam Park - a National Trust property and an excellent Youth Hostel. The grounds are well worth a visit, as is the Tea Room, and if you are looking for somewhere to stay, you could do a lot worse than the Youth Hostel.

At the front of the hostel is a church and beyond a view to Thorpe Cloud, our first hill of the day. At the end of the drive, we enter Ilam village - one of the most beautiful anywhere. If you can, take time to look around. The cottages are deliberately Swiss in their design and construction, thanks to the original Landowner.

From Ilam, turn left at the cross and follow an obvious footpath across the fields past the rear of the Isaac Walton hotel to the car park and the finish.