UK Mountains Expedition Report

Peaks climbed : Scafell Pike(964m)

Total Distance : 20km, Total Ascent : 800m

England's highest mountain at 977m sits in the Northern Lake District. Of all of the three peaks; the three highest in Scotland, Wales and England it comes third, but nevertheless it is a fine day out.

I started the walk from Seathwaite at the head of Borrowdale which is one of the two classic starts, the other being the shorter ascent from Wasdale Head. This route clocks in at just over 8.5 miles with a total ascent of 960m which given that Scafell Pike is 977m above sea level means that it is pretty much climbed from sea level which is the way mountains should be climbed.

Walking up the valley to the Stockley Bridge is an easy walk, uphill but the gradient is easy. From the bridge, the route turns right and heads steeply up to a gate in the wall and onward past a small group of trees until flattening out but still upwards to Styhead Tarn where I stopped for a well earned goodie bar and cup of hot black currant juice.

The route continues up above the tarn until one reaches the Mountain Rescue Stretcher box where a left turn brings the walker along the South side of the tarn and drawing level with the edge a right turn begins the Corridor Route. This is a mid-level walk along the valley, not high enough to be in the rocks but higher than the stream that runs down the valley to Wasdale head and Wastwater. The path itself is indistinct in places so care must be taken to stay on it as there are a number of Gills that can only be crossed where the path meets them - other crossings would be extremely dangerous undertakings.

Eventually the path reaches a major stream running down the mountain. Ahead is the huge scar formed by Piers Gill and it is here than the route goes steeply upwards following the line (but not too close) of the stream.

Eventually a good path is reached which goes approximately South East until the scree slopes appear when the angle increases sharply and the going gets much tougher. Perseverance is the name of the game onward and upward until the angle yields to easier ground, but unfortunately the going is every bit as tough as the scree gives way to much larger rocks making progress slow as one traverses a route over the sharp and often slippery rocks until the summit shelter and trig point come into view. On a good day there are fantastic views of the Lakes. Sadly on the day I summited, the peak was in the clouds and the view non-existent.

A quick photo to prove the ascent and I was off, electing to retrace my steps down the scree slope which, if anything, was harder going down than it ever was going up, but soon enough I was on better ground and began the long walk down to the Corridor route again and back to Styhead. The clouds had lifted and the views along the valley excellent. Soon enough I came to the tarn and with just two miles to go felt a sense of achievement. Okay, the views weren't good, but the day had been a good one, quiet, peaceful - I saw hardly anyone all day and the only noise came from the rushing water down the various Gills. Out in the fresh air is a great way to contemplate life and try to leave the troubles behind.

As I walked back into Seathwaite my thoughts turned to the practicalities of driving to my chosen accommodation, a shower, some food and maybe a beer or two to round off a great day out.

Peaks climbed : Scafell Pike(964m)

Total Distance : 20km, Total Ascent : 800m

There are many ways to ascend Scafell Pike, Englands Highest Peak (977m) From Wasdale Head which is probably the shortest route, from Seathwaite via the Corridor Route an interesting high level route or from Esk Hause via Broad Crag.

It is the latter route that is normally used when walking from Langdale and this is the one that is described here, although it is possible to continue on and pick up the Corridor Route, it is not the best or easiest.

This walk starts at the Great Langdale Campsite and heads up quickly to join the Cumbria Way which can be reached by leaving the campsite by the main entrance, turning right for a short way, then through the gate on the left and up across the field. The Way is just beyond the main wall running perpendicular to the walk from the gate. This is followed up the valley for a few miles and is relatively flat, climbing only slightly towards the end where the footbridge over the Mickleden Beck is reached.

A convenient signpost indicates either Stake Gill straight ahead or Esk Hause to the left. It is amazing that there are not more signs like this, after all, they are standard practise in most of Europe - go to the Alps or Switzerland and you will find indicators with destination and estimated walking time everywhere. Even Tenerife has them for all of the more popular walks.

From here the path climbs steeply up, unrelenting and if anything, gets steeper as the climb progresses until finally some sky is seen ahead. Over the rise and onward (and upward) eventually flattening and then losing altitude, which is always depressing, but in this case, not too much as Angle Tarn comes into view; notable by the shape which looks a bit like a cartoon speech balloon on its side.

On a nice day Angle Tarn makes an excellent rest stop before continuing onward and upward to Esk Hause which is recognisable by the Cross shaped shelter - an indicator that the wind can come from any direction!

From here, take the path to the left, but be careful to follow it as it sweeps rightwards and upwards towards Great End. More care is necessary to follow the line of cairns as the path becomes indistinct, swallowed up as it is by the morain of rocks. The correct route stays to the left of Broad Crag and one should not stray any further into the boulder field than the line of cairns indicates, otherwise you will find yourself on very tricky ground! Of course, you may want to ascend Broad Crag, a nice 'bag' at 934m high should you be collecting mountains. If you do, then make your way down with great care to pick up the marked path and do not stray too far to the North West otherwise again the ground becomes extremely dangerous.

Back on track, once again height is temporarily lost as the track goes through the gap but then it is upward on a reasonable path for the final 300m or so to the summit which finally deteriorates with about 50m to go. The summit is notable by the trig point, which is not the normal white painted affair but a proper local stone trig point. Also there is some shelter which allows the walker to be out of the wind whichever direction it happens to be blowing and gives the assurance of being on the correct summit, even in bad weather. Also, it is highly unlikely, especially on a weekend, to be alone on this peak! The return journey is most safely achieved by retracing the steps back down to Esk Hause and beyond into the Langdale Valley, stopping possibly in the Old Dungeon Ghyll for a quick, or slow, pint of Old Peculiar, Guinness or even a Lager.

It was an excellent day out, but don't forget that the weather can change dramatically and a nice day in Langdale Valley can be an awful day by the time Scafell is reached.

Peaks climbed : Scafell (964m), Symonds Knot (959m)

Total Distance : 20km, Total Ascent : 1,100m

Today I had two bags in mind; Scafell and Symonds Knot, both new peaks to me; at least, they are not ticked off in my Mountain tables book.

I got an early start, away from the Youth Hostel (Eskdale) by 7:45 I headed up the road in the direction of the Hardknot pass but only for about 1km when I turned off and headed up in the direction of the River Esk that gives this area it's name.

Steady walking until the bridge over Scale Gill then a left to head steeply upwards onto a plateau. The early mist was clearing nicely and my views unspoilt. After an hour or so the huge cliffs of Cam Spout Crags come into view with the massive waterfalls. Just past these there is a lesser stream running down. This marks the route up with Scafell on the left and Scafell Pike on the right although due to the mist being at about 800m I couldn't see the top and checked a couple of times to ensure my route was the correct one - it was!

Near the top the mist lifted completely and would be gone for the rest of the day. I realised just how close I was and it gave me a good lift. The crags were an impressive sight to my left. Cresting the ridge l paused for breath before realising that to gain Lords Rake I would have to descend the other side for a while!

The descent was horrid. Loose wet scree made for a very careful descend but clearly I wasn't the first to do this and I spotted a track to my left which contoured round to the base of Lords Rake. The track itself was very thin in places and not for the faint of heart.

The first section of the rake was a scree slope best attacked from the right which allowed a combination of scrambling and rock climbing techniques to be used. There is a short descent followed by another short ascent then a much bigger descent leading to the final ascent on better ground to the final summit path which is still steep but nowhere near as hard. Wainwright describes it as easier than Jake's Rake on Pavey Ark which for an exposure point of view is true, but Jake's Rake is much better rock.

Finally summiting Symonds Knot I could look across to Scafell Pike a few hundred metres away and be thankful for the lack of crowds here - unfortunately that was short lived with about 20 or more walkers who turned up shouting and yelling, clearly unconcerned about the noise levels. I was glad to see them leave!

Break over I walked back down a way then up onto Scafell itself for my second bag of the day. Pausing only briefly I soon headed off and down towards Wastwater on some really awful scree making my knees and feet complain. Once clear of the worst of it I decided it was lunchtime so found a suitable rock and settled down to eat. I could easily see Burnmoor Tarn ahead so had no worries about navigation.

The tarn took some getting to as the path frequently disappeared to be replaced by soggy marsh ground but I progressed. From there I could see my route heading off slightly left, over Lamford Bridge and over a crest, finally arriving at Eel Tarn where I decided another good break was called for.

It was so tranquil with no-one around and amazing views in all directions. I sat for what seemed like an age before reluctantly hoisting my sac and heading down. As I descended I noticed a sign for either Boot or the Woolpack Inn - no competition but I promised myself just the one!

Of course one beer goes too quickly but I left and walked back to the Hostel, keen to get my boots off and relax.

Peaks climbed : Little Stand (740m), Crinkle Crags (859m), Shelter Crags (815m), Shelter Crags (North) (775m), Flesk (834m), Bow Fell (902m)

Total Distance : 25km, Total Ascent : 1,400m

I'd agonized over this route. Originally I'd planned to climb Bow Fell then return via Crinkle Crags and Little Stand but then on closer inspection decided to reverse the route as the descent off Little Stand looked like it would present more problems than an ascent - I was right!

My route took me along the valley on a nice path away from the road to the Jubilee Bridge, then up the Hardnott Pass for a short while until a detour bought me to the Roman Fort, remarkably still present in outline. Well worth a visit, there are plaques around describing the various buildings. I couldn't imagine Romans relishing the prospect of a visit to the Lake District but I suppose a spot of locals bashing might make up for it.

The path meets the road again near the top and then it is across and down the other side walking two sides of a triangle, the third being the Pass itself but infinitely better than walking down the road.

Cockley Beck bridge signalled the start of the first big climb. As I had walked along my eyes strained to see a route up Little Stand. If there was one I couldn't see it but spotted a likely route up with a few options that I would decide on when I got to them. First target though was a gate in wall so off I set, the incline steepening rapidly. The ground varied from grassy to Rocky and back again. Through the gate the incline steepened even further and it became something of a scramble which added to the interest nicely. Some more route choices presented and I aimed left to the obvious gap on the horizon. This proved to be a good choice and I soon found myself on the summit ridge. A cairn to my left indicating the high point.

A well earned break and map consultation showed me the route to Crinkle Crags beyond. Away to my left I fancied I could see Scafell and Scafell Pike - it was! I could even see my line of ascent and jolly steep it looked too!

Moving off I approached the crags via an open plain which was mostly dry with a few marshy areas, reminding me that I was short of water, but no chance of a fill here I would have to make do with what I had left plus my blackcurrant which on reflection, I should have made cold.

The crags themselves are fun, a combination of scrambling sections and paths interspersed with short plains with a small tarn.

Finally Three Tarns appears. No prizes for guessing the reason for the name. Here I had a choice; Bow Fell rose up ahead begging to be climbed, my descent route to my left inviting a descent. As I consulted my map a couple of guys asked if I was checking where I was. 'No, just deciding whether to climb Bow Fell' I responded. 'Shame to come all this way and not do it' one of them replied. Oh dear, challenge accepted!

Actually it is a nice and relatively short ascent and I was soon standing on the summit - my sixth new summit of the day and tenth on the trip. On Crinkle Crags, there are more summits on one ridge than just about anywhere else in the Lake District.

Walking back down strained the knees a little but nothing compared to the descent to Lingcove Beck from Three Tarns which despite the maps claims, has no footpath,or at least none I could see. It is a reasonable angle but long. On the way down I found a stream so refilled my water bottle and drank copiously to attempt to rehydrate as much as I could.

Once down at the Beck I just needed to follow it to the road. It was just over 4km which seemed further but I did stop a couple of times for a break and to simply admire the views. Finally I arrived at the road and turned up a small climb to reach the Jubilee Bridge again. Retracing my steps from the morning I almost made an error picking the high path but quickly realised I was on the way to Harter Fell!

The final few km went without a hitch but I arrived back at Eskdale Youth Hostel very tired, too tired in fact to continue to the pub!

Peaks climbed : Helm Crag (405m), Gibson Knott (405m), Greenup Edge (690m), High Raise (762m), Thunacar Knott (723m), Pike of Stickle (709m), Harrison Stickle (736m), Sergeant Man (710m), Codale Head (732m)

Total Distance : 25km, Total Ascent : 1,052m

This time I was over at Grasmere. The village is completely stitched up parking wise, but back on the main road there is some parking 5-10 minutes walk away. My first target was Helm Crag, visible from the main road and quite impressive looking. It is possible to bypass Grasmere by taking a small track next to the stream on the way in, emerging on a lane leading up to Lancrigg which is a restaurant and hotel but has attachments to Wordsworth (doesn't everywhere around here?!). Signs led me through the gardens and out onto the hillside where, once again, I took the most direct route onto the summit. I had thought that this was a new peak but on arrival was pretty sure I'd been up here before on the Coast to Coast Walk. Either way, it is an impressive summit and has excellent views. Like yesterday, it was already windy and quite cold so I put everything on, including my Black Diamond gloves to give them a test run. It is a long walk via Gibson Knott up to Greenup Edge, the walking is easy and the incline reasonably gentle but I was glad to get up. Turning left, it is a good pull up to High Raise, which has a useful shelter at the summit and one I took advantage of for my first break of the day.

Thunacar Knott is slightly lower in altitude and nothing much of interest except now I could see Pike of Stickle and Harrison Stickle. My original plan was to descend via Helm Crag but I took the decision to ascend that way and if I felt good I could take in the Stickles. Seeming as close as they did, and feeling pretty good I felt obliged to walk over to them, even though they are previous conquests so nothing new. Pike of Stickle in particular is a great little climb with lots of route choices; follow the path or find your own way with some simple scrambling - those who know me will of course, guess correctly that I chose the latter method snd thoroughly enjoyed myself. Again it was incredibly windy on the summit so care was needed near the edge - it's a long drop down to Langdale below! I found a nice shelter for a break and some more food before setting off to Harrison Stickle, another peak with choices. Yes, I chose the scramble!

Sergeant Man was next on the list which involved a long traverse on sloping but reasonably good ground. Amazingly it is not in the Peaks Book so doesn't count as a new peak technically, but as it was a good climb in its' own right I've included it. I don't know why it's not included, I guess there isn't the required drop between it and High Raise to qualify it which is a shame as it definitely qualifies from the direction I approached it. Checking the map I noticed Codale Head was just ahead and one I had in my plan, I had to go over and bag it as my final peak of the day and of the trip. From there, I took a fairly random descent, keeping Pavey Ark and Stickle Tarn to my right I picked up the path down to Easdale Tarn which tested the knees in places until it finally eased into a more gently decline to arrive at the tarn itself.

Onward on much better and easier walking down to the valley. I'd decided to walk across to Lancrigg for a coffee which was a few minutes detour. I rather wished I hadn't bothered. They only did ordinary coffee which was average at best, and cake which was better but at £7.45 was something of a rip-off I thought. The final walk back to the car was a reverse of the incoming route.

Peaks climbed : Coldbarrow Fell [Low Saddle] (656m), Ullscarf (726m)

Total Distance : 20km, Total Ascent : 916m

I'd initially intended to head up to Glaramara. The weather was poor right from the start with heavy rain and strong wind but I persevered. After a couple of miles and heading upwards, the wind picked up so strongly that it knocked me off my feet a couple of times. Common sense kicked in and I decided to retreat, the peaks on this route were numerous and craggy, if I was being blown about here, it would be downright dangerous on the summit.

Back in Borrowdale I decided to give Coldbarrow a try so headed off up that valley. The walking was quite steady until I turned off the path and up through the woods where it got very steep. Taking my time I made my way steadily up until I emerged onto the fell proper where I started to feel the effect of the strong wind and rain. I stayed on the good path which bought me to Blea Tarn, but then I was on my own on non-existent paths across to Coldbarrow Fell. With the low cloud, it was impossible to see the summit but I figured if I was going up then that was fine. I spotted a small hilltop which I initially dismissed as it didn't seem high enough but then I decided I would summit it to be on the safe side. Checking with my navigation aid, it had the real summit very close to where I was but it was clearly wrong. It turned out that the hilltop I could see was Low Saddle and is, in fact, the summit I wanted. The other spot height was wrong!

Summiting I didn't stop as I was quite cold and very wet. Pressing on, and still climbing I eventually summited Ullscarf which has a confusing array of summit like features but finally I spotted the man-made cairn which was the true summit.

Again not stopping, I continued past and started downhill but must have turned early as I found myself looking down a steep descent with no obvious path. There was nothing for it but to make my way down to what looked like the actual path.

My day was far from over as the path was continually flooded by waterfalls and streams in full flow due to the amount of rain. Several times I had to detour up the slopes to find a safe way across, then back down again to join the path. About half way down I decided it was lunchtime so found the best spot I could and sat down.

It got cold very quickly so I was soon away, with many more waterfalls and streams to negotiate before I got onto flatter ground, but my trial was far from over with the path being flooded, I was walking up a stream until I reached the bridge over the river and the road back to Borrowdale.

Pike of Blisco (705m), Cold Pike (701m), Cold Pike West Top (683m), Cold Pike Far West Top (670m), Great Knott (696m), [Bow Fell (902m)], Bow Fell North Top (866m), Rossett Pike (651m), Loft Crag (680m)

Total Distance : 22km, Total Ascent : 1,836m

My starting point for the day was Stickle Gill National Trust Car Park in Langdale valley. Being a National Trust member, I parked for free, saving £8.50 which I was pretty pleased about. Being a Monday, the car park was deserted, plus it was only around 8:15am so may have been too early for some.

I set off following the road that would lead to the Wrynose Pass and after about a mile, broke off right to head up towards my first summit; Pike of Blisco (705m). It was pretty relentless all the way up. I'd elected to walk in shorts and a T-shirt but as I gained height, the cold wind made its' presence known and I stopped to add my Rab mid-layer which I would wear for most of the day. The path is steep but good, right the way to the rocky summit and after one hour and twenty minutes, I was sat on my first peak of the day. The weather was superb and the views amazing so I took the opportunity of a short break. With the chill wind, it was most definitely a short break and I was soon off to the Cold Pike Mountains which arrived within about thirty minutes.

Cold Pike is actually three peaks quite close together but have the necessary drop between them to stand in their own right, and I quickly ticked them off, bringing my total to four for the day. Great Knott was also topped quite quickly, but then it was a long walk over to Bow Fell. Unfortunately, Crinkle Crags was in the way so I had to make my way slowly and carefully over and around the various summits that make it up before finding myself at the foot of the big climb to Bow Fell, which was also in the way of my next destination, Bow Fell North Top. Technically I didn't need to top out on Bow Fell, but I was so close I decided it would be churlish not to, so ascended the rocky scramble to stand on the summit.

One of the down sides of standing on Bow Fell was that I could see just how far away the North Top was and the obvious difficulty of getting there, requiring negotiating lots of boulders on the way, plus the final scramble ascent to the actual summit but I made it without incident and looked back at the main top. With just two peaks remaining, I set off for Rossett Pike which looked reasonably close but clearly was some distance as it was not possible to walk in a straight line; a sheer cliff and a tarn were in the way! I made my way down carefully, on the way I spied a good sized rock that would shelter me from the constant cold wind, so elected to take a lunch break. Squatting down I had a superb view across Angle Tarn and to Rossett Pike, with Pike o' Stickle behind it. I reminded myself that the last time I had visited Angle Tarn had been about five years previous (Langdale to Scafell Pike - described on this page) and I'd been camping at Langdale. I'd walked past it on my way over to Scafell Pike.

Even with the shelter, I cooled off quickly so set off as soon as I finished my sandwich. Descending to the Tarn, Rossett Pike disappears from view, but soon returns on the ascent side. It is a slight detour from the main path and a little scramble onto the summit itself. Nothing special so I continued onwards towards the final prize of the day across open moorland with no obvious path. There was a long, steep descent to a beck, then an even longer ascent towards the left of Pike o' Stickle. Some slight confusion on the top as to which peak was Loft Crag, initially I'd though it was the big one straight ahead but realised that was Harrisons Stickle and my summit was to the right as I looked. It was an easy top, just a few minutes from the main path down to Langdale. From there it is a long and at times very steep descent down on a good path to the valley and the path emerges into the car park which made a nice finish. Eight new peaks plus one revisit made for a good, if long day out.

Lingmell (800m), Middleboot Knots (703m), Round How (741m), Great End (910m), Esk Pike (885m), Seathwaite Fell South Top (631m), Seathwaite Fell (632m)

Total Distance : 19km, Total Ascent : 1,348m

Starting once again from Wasdale, I followed the Lingmell Gill path that is used as the main ascent of Scafell Pike. It is a good path, and well used so very easy to follow. At around 700m altitude, I broke off and headed left to the obvious summit of Lingmell, although actually, it's not the summit, that is hidden just behind a few minutes walk away. From there I could see the entire landscape and took the time to check out my next two destinations which looked very small in the landscape of giants. To get to Middleboot Knots I descended to the path which crossed the fierce looking Piers Gill, then left across pathless terrain for a short while to make the easy short ascent. It barely warranted a mountain status, but it qualified so who am I to argue? On from there it was back to the path again for a while then off directly across to Round How. It is an interesting mountain, requiring some easy scrambling to gain the summit which added to the interest. Standing on the summit, it seemed very small with mountains towering all around.

The next section to Great End was far from obvious with no direct path and it was the one section I was slightly worried about. Looking ahead, the walls looked huge and uninviting so I sat a while to work out the best route. In the far corner I spotted a stream gill that looked like it would yield, and some grassier sections to the left would also help overcome the difficulty. That would do, I headed over. As it turned out, it was easier than I expected and presented no technical difficulties. I soon arrived on easier ground, picking up the obvious path to the summit. Great End, like many mountains in this area, seems to have more than one summit and I struggled to determine the actual top, so in good old fashion, stood on both. Argument solved!

Esk Pike is just over a mile from Great End, but on a good path right the way to the final ascent. Near the top, rock scrambling was required to gain the final few metres and I soon stood on my final peak of the day - or so I thought!

Descending, I planned to walk past Sprinklings Tarn, down to Styhead and follow the path all the way to Wasdale. As I got to the Tarn I looked across and saw Seathwaite Fell very close. I agonised over whether to do them (there are two summits) or not as they were part of another planned route but it was too much to resist and I figured that it would reduce the future plan that included them, so all was good. They were soon bagged and as I walked back to the path, decided it was lunchtime, so found a sheltered spot and sat enjoying the peace and quiet for a while before rejoining the path descending to Wasdale.

Wasdale comes into view soon after Styhead but seems to take an age to get to and even when down, the car park seems an eternity away but I got there, pleased with my day and my extra mountains, plus I'd bagged the two highest outstanding mountains so doubly happy with that.