UK Mountains Walking, Mountaineering and Equipment Reviews
Day 21 Phakding to Lukla

Maximum Altitude: 2,860m

A 7:30am breakfast and we were away just after 8am, walking into sunshine quite early on and I was soon down to my T-Shirt. The walk was pleasant with many Donkey and Yak trains to amuse us on the way. The walk gains altitude as it approaches Lukla which is actually the high point of the day.

Traffic Jam - Nepal style

Along the way, we stopped for Tea, unheard of previously, but it was welcome and broke up the walk nicely. From there it seemed no time at all that we were walking through the gate into Lukla itself. Our Lodge was literally next to the airport and runway and from the garden it was possible to watch the planes and helicopters land and take off. They had a very interesting way of refuelling the helicopters by using large containers and pouring it in - the man responsible seeming to be barely tall enough to reach and managing to spill plenty!

The Lodge rooms were very basic as usual but featured an en-suite toilet which was welcome as the rooms were separate to the main lodge. Washing facilities were almost non-existent, comprising a single sink (for everyone).

We were early enough for lunch which was a Cheese sandwich, beans and rice, unusual, but acceptable. After lunch, a few of us headed for the coffee shop which, in addition to excellent coffee and fantastic cake had free WiFi and free battery charging. I took full advantage of all of those; recharging my phone, sending some messages and having two cappuchinos, a slice of Black Forest Gateau and a Do-nut, all for less than Re1,000

From there back to the room to attempt to spread the packing load and also pack my Kukri knife. I doubt they would be amused if it was in as 'hand luggage'. I think I succeeded by wrapping it in my sit-mat and duct taping it down. I knew the duct tape would come in useful eventually.

This afternoon we did the tip ceremony with Chris providing the main speech. Liam and I both asked to personally present our Porters which was agreed but when it came to it, was ignored. Once again, I thought the Team Leader should have been the one to lead it. Actually I thought she should have done the speech as well but Chris did an admirable job. The main Sherpa Guides also received their tips and I think were happy, although it was a striking difference compared to Africa - these Porters take the money, smile and put it straight into their pockets, the Africans insist on opening the envelopes and counting it, almost greedily.

The Tipping Ceremony

Handshakes and hugs all round - one of the porters was clearly much the worse for drink, but who could complain? He'd been carrying our bags for the last three weeks over terrain we had struggled over with just day sacs. Good luck to him I say.

As it was (supposed to be) our last night, there was a party atmosphere at the Lodge and after a meat based dinner, we had a few beers and then the (Nepalese) music came on prompting the Sherpas to lead the dancing. Slowly we all joined in, although their stamina put us all to shame, we did our best to keep up and enjoy the music. After an hour or so it began to wind down with people starting to drift off to bed. We were mindful of the early start ahead of us to catch the flight back to Kathmandu. A lovely end to a fantastic trip.

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