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UK Mountains Expedition Report

Aconcagua Report
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The Highest Mountain in South America
Home to Base Camp
Base Camp to Camp 1
Camp1 to Camp 2
Camp 2 to Summit
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Day 16: Load Carry to Camp 2 (5,900m)
Saturday February 10th 2001

Today was a load carry to Camp 2. The intention was to take one days worth to the 'Col' Camp site, which is about half way between the two, and the remaining three days worth to Camp 2 itself. The walk up to the Col was reasonable given the altitude, but the walk from the Col to Camp 2 was really tough. Linda managed to make a fool of herself again, bypassing the col then having to walk down 50m (height gain) or so! Paul and Derek raced ahead and I followed, but we soon separated and by the time I got near to Camp 2, they were nowhere to be seen. I wondered around for twenty minutes or so trying to find them which annoyed me. Eventually I managed to make radio contact and we met up. I was quite cross because they hadn't bothered to make their positions known.

In amongst the Penitentes

The chosen location for the gear dump was pretty piss-poor too - there were no available tent sites, so when we go up for good, we will have to move all the gear again! It was at this moment that Linda made a fool of herself again, insisting she be accompanied back to Camp 1! I thought we were all grown ups on this trip and besides, the only woman I look after is Ad, so I ignored her and left her with Derek, Rich and Paul. On the way down, we separated due to differing speeds of descent. I decided to stop for a while to take in the view, which was superb. I must have sat there for 1/2 hour or so before completing the descent to Camp 1.

Danny has been feeling rough for a while and has descended to Base Camp. Justine only got as far as the Col camp. Mark didn't start the day due to feeling rough. We will see how they fare. Jeremy had to descend to Base to check on Danny again, so I had the tent to myself. Unfortunately I had a rough nights sleep and woke several times feeling out of breath. One time I was so twisted in my sleeping bag, I had to unzip it, get out and start again. I also have a humungous sweat rash on both inner thighs so I have been trying to sort that with a combination of E45 and Savlon. Leggings appear to help.

Day 17: Rest Day
Sunday February 11th 2001

I awoke to another rest day feeling as if I hadn't slept. My eyes were unbelievably swollen and it took some time for me to get my act together. I decided I couldn't face my public without dark glasses.

One good thing about being here, the exercise bike remained at Camp 1!

The loads are getting bigger!

We had a briefing at 10:00am to outline future plans. One subject raised (by me) was the divvying of the gear before we leave so that it isn't left to the descent days to organise, when no one will want any extra. Linda, of course, moaned about size/weight ratios, everyone ignored her. We divvied as much as we could as fairly as possible.

The rest of the day was spent sorting out for the move up tomorrow, reading and relaxing. I was hoping to phone Ad but the phone batteries are not charging properly so that may not happen - we will see. It didn't happen of course. I tried but was told that the phone would just about support the web updates and a call to Richard Pelly. I hope Ad will read the website and know from that I am safe - it's not as good as a personal call but it is the next best thing. The rest of the day passed uneventfully.

Day 18: Move up to Camp 2
Monday February 12th 2001

Today was our biggest test so far. We are moving up to Camp 2 at 5,900m. It was a real slog and my pack was just too heavy. Luckily, we had a lunch stop at the 'Col' Camp and a few were collecting or depositing gear so I took the opportunity of dropping off some luxury items. Out went spare-spare socks, out went the sleeping bag liner (I am always too hot) and out went my third spare hat and fingerless gloves (I'll either be cold or I won't, no in between).

The Col campsite

The trek from the Col to Camp 2 was hard but uneventful and we arrived at aboout 5:30pm. Tent erection and sort out took little time - we are experts now! I asked Rich to use the phone. He informed me that the phone had been left at Camp 1 due to the weight! So I can't phone Ad until we go for the summit and return - I was looking forward to phoning her today and Valentines Day but it looks as if it will be Friday at the earliest. I am very disappointed to say the least.

I decided to have a bit of a lie down as I was quite tired. When I woke, it was about 7:00pm and I felt quite chilled. I got up and out of the tent and felt totally shit. I stood around feeling bad, telling Jeremy I would get my act together soon, but felt really bad at the moment. Don't worry he said, dinner can wait! I nearly smacked him. There I was feeling bad, he felt fine and still expected me to make dinner - I refused and out waited him. Eventually he succumbed and got on with it. I know why Rich changed tent partners to Danny!

Camp 2 is almost on the skyline

After dinner I went almost straight to bed feeling pretty bad. Once in bed, strangely I felt much better and read for a bit. I had a really good nights sleep and awoke about 10:00am.

Day 19: Rest Day
Tuesday February 13th 2001

An easy start to the day involved breakfast, a group meeting which made the decision to go for the summit tomorrow. We vaguely agreed groups of three or four and to leave by 06:00am! We heard later that Danny, who came up to Camp 2 but had to be helped down had collapsed with suspected HAPE. He was helped down from Camp 1 to Base, apparently arriving about midnight. We had a mild lecture from the head of the Joint Services about good comms (our radios have always been crap) and teamwork - Danny insisted, against advice, to come up to Camp 2, went down feeling bad, but not terrible - there was no way we could have avoided it.

Team photo at Camp 2

We had a long discussion with everyone trying to find some way to blame themselves. I couldn't see the point, Danny is a grown up, he knew how well or badly he felt and was advised by the doctor not to come up and still he came, so what can you do? The worst party of it was that everyone felt an obligation to go down to where the phone was so that the website could be updated and Dannys next of kin could be told. It seemed to me there was no real reason why it couldn't wait one more day when the 'volunteer' could have summited at least but I was in the (vocal) minority so kept quiet. There was no way I was going down, and whilst it sounds harsh, there are plenty of people at Camp 1 and Base Camp, one more will just get in the way. Luckily Richard offered himself - no-one objected and so after sorting himself out, started down. I still wonder that he thinks he can realistically do, Danny will be in the hospital by the time he gets there, the trip organisation needs no additional work, all he will be able to do is to worry Dannys parents a day earler. Jeremy, as the trip Doctor, I think takes on some of the blame, rightly or wrongly he feels that he should have been more insistent or spotted the serious nature of the illness earlier. Later on, as if Dannys dilemma wasn't bad enough, Jeremy has spotted a couple of climber on the direct route taking somewhat longer than they should and suggested that a number of us move to the Independencia Camp to provide help for them on the way down!

The climbers, it turns out, are the same team that sent people back from Camp 1 with AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) - do they never learn? The upshot is that Jeremy, Alex, Paul and Derek packed up and set off for the hut (at about 4:30pm!) The upside is that, providing the Poles are okay, will have a good sleep and can get up around 8:00am to meet up with the rest of us. The downside is that they have to carry all their gear to 6,200m and back again.

Camp 2 is spartan

Mark and Steve arrived at about 5:30pm. It will be interesting to see who gets to the top tomorrow, the advance party will probably go, unless they have to escort the Poles down. I'm going to get there! Chris and Jen will probably do it. Brian, I don't think is well enough acclimatised and may well struggle. Linda still has a bad cough and may well turn around. Justine, although fit enough, tends to rush around too much and may well blow herself out.

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