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UK Mountains Expedition Report

Aconcagua Report
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The Highest Mountain in South America
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Day 20: Summit Day (6,952m)
Wednesday February 14th 2001

Happy Valentines Day!

Chris, Alex and Brian insisted we set our alarms for 3:00am for a 5:00am start. I ignored them and set mine for 4:00am and was still ready in plenty of time, For reasons various, I appeared to become the leader for the initial party, comprising Chris, Brian, Linda, Justine and Jen. After about an hour and a half we reached the vicinity of the White Rocks campsite where Paul, Alex, Derek and Jeremy were. At this point, Linda became much worse and we had to get Jeremy to come down to see her. He concluded that she should go down. Linda finally agreed but of course, had to be accompanied. Both Jeremy as Team Doctor and Brian out of a sense of duty accompanied her down - she of course, insisted she could go on her own - what a pratt! So, as a result of her efforts to prove she could do something she clearly couldn't, not only did she fail herself, but she deprived two others of their attempts.

Heading up to White Rocks

The remaining seven continued onwards to the Independencia Hut, more a small shelter really, then on and up where the work really began and we knew we were climbing a mountain. By this stage of course, we were on the Normal Route and so were in the company of tens of other climbers. The route to the summit was straightforward but really tough going, requiring many stops.

The Canaletta

As the summit got closer, and we were on the Canaletta which signals around 400 metres to go, we became very tired and without encouragement from the others, sheer determination and the desire to claim the summit, I for one, would have given up the attempt. One or two paces were all we could manage without a break, exhausted.

The team on the summit

We'd given ourselves a turn around time of 4:00m, but at 4:30pm, we all finally stood on the summit in various stages of exhaustion but exhilaration. In addition to myself, there was Chris, Derek, Paul, Jen, Justine and Alex. I have to say that I didn't take full advantage of the situation, but managed to get several photos taken of me and the group. Fatigue had set in, big time. (Overshooting the turn around time just shows how the determination to succeed can often over-ride safety considerations, but with seven of us, there was plenty of support for each other.)

After about half an hour, we started the somewhat arduous descent. It was at this time that I became aware of my physical state - I was totally exhausted. Paul and Derek realised the state I was in and offered me food and drink. I took some liquid and chocolate and was almost immediately sick. I was in a bad way, never before have I felt so utterly drained.

The two of them accompanied me down and we caught Alex who assisted. I felt almost drunk. I was dragging my poles rather than walking with them. Every step was deliberate, like a drunk trying to walk a straight line. Eventually we made it down to the tents at White Rocks.

There was a debate about whether to stay or continue down. Eventually we made the decision to go down and set about packing up. The trip down was completed without incident and we arrived in Camp 2 about 10:00pm in the dark, having been away for some seventeen hours. The rest of the lads were there to help us into the camp site. Jeremy came over to check me out and confirmed that I was suffering from dehydration and exhaustion and needed nothing more than a drink and sleep.

Justine on the other hand, suffered from HAPE - she had rushed off just after the Independencia Hut (and had a severe bollocking from me when we caught her up!). Jenny had suffered from HACE - much worse. Jeremy had given her an injection to combat the problem. The others were all tired but otherwise fine.

I don't think the achievement has yet set in, maybe its because there is still such a long way to go before we are totally safe. I wish I could phone Ad and let her know I'm okay and talk to her.

Day 21: Descent To Base Camp
Thursday February 15th 2001

Technically today was going to be a rest day at Camp 2 but we took the decision to split the team. Those who had summitted, minus Paul and Alex would descend to Base Camp in an effort to combat the various illnesses etc, whilst Steve, Jeremy and Mark would remain at Camp 2 to have a go at the summit tomorrow with Paul and Alex in support.

We set off down with pretty heavy packs. Linda was still suffering and being pathetic all the way down. I couldn't cope with it so moved ahead so that I didn't have to listen. We arrived at the 'Col' Camp at about 1:00pm and collected the gear and food we'd left there. My pack was now too heavy but this was the downhill section.

On arrival at Camp 1, we were met by Richard who had come up to meet us. The phone was at Camp 1 too so I took the opportunity of phoning Ad to let her know I was safe and we'd done it. She was well pleased to hear from me. We'd left some gear here so I junked the food and attempted to pack all the rest of my belongings. The weight was now really taking the piss! Not only was the inside full, but there was nowhere externally left to hang anything. The journey to Base Camp was tough. Linda was carrying an additional pack and was told by Brian to rearrange and leave one of them at Camp 1 with a view to collecting it later. She refused and we set off expecting trouble. Sure enough, by the time we reached the bottom of the scree, she was nowhere to be seen.

Eventually she came into view with Derek carrying one of her packs! When they caught us, Brian gave her a severe bollocking, telling her she was becoming a liability to not only herself but the team as a whole. I had to agree with him and felt some sympathy because it was Lindas selfish attitude that had deprived him of his summit attempt yesterday. We stood over her whilst she rearranged her gear. The next big fuss was where to leave the sac. We'd never find it again she complained - we'd only been here five times before - I think we'll locate the sac!

The rest of the walk down was uneventful except that my pack was uncomfortable and I had to stop a couple of times to rearrange it. At one of the stops, we decided to take a drink, Linda had packed her water bottle at the bottom of her sac - is she pathetic or what?

On arrival at Base Camp we were so relieved to be down. We decided to order a 'take away' so got the Inka people (the support team) to serve up Hambuger, Chips and beer at $17 a pop! They then repeated the order when Chris and Jen arrived. We sat drinking beer and whisky for a time before retiring to a well-earned bed and almost immediate sleep.

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