| Prequel - Getting to Edale |
| Edale to Malham (77 miles) |
| Malham to Dufton (90 miles) |
| Dufton to Kirk Yetholm (107 miles) |
The days hike saw us heading off in the wrong direction and having to walk the long way round to get back on the track again. The climb to Knock Fell was very long, hard and tedious but we finally made the summit. From here we had a muddy walk to the summit of Great Dun Fell, upon which, we couldn't see the masts until we were only a few yards away. Little Dun Fell and Cross Fell were equally muddy and covered in mist. We were very glad to get off them all.
Lunch was had in an old bothy called Gregs Hut which was very cold and damp. We had to make our own sandwiches. I have never had a Sunday lunch to compare with this and hope I never shall again.
It was so cold in there that Tracys lips turned blue! We fled the place and headed off down the track past the old quarry where Tracy picked up a rock which was 'just staring at me' and carried it off with her.
The walk to Garrigil was a long trek following a path covered with loose stones which did my feet no good at all. In the village we saw a sign offering weary travellers such as ourselves, tea and scones. In we went and spent about half an hour drinking tea by the gallon and eating scones by the tonful. During our rest, the UJ Kid and friends arrived and joined us in our feasting. The dull wet outside looked very uninviting but we knew we must press on so out into the rain we went and headed for Alston.
The walk to Alston was quite pleasant along the banks of the river and we were quite surprised when the Youth Hostel suddenly appeared in front of us. We were glad to be there. After signing in, we bought dinner which consisted of a box of fig rolls and a box of ginger nuts - very substantial! While eating our way through these, we made our beds and had a wash.
After all this, we went down to the common room to play chess until about nine o'clock when we went in search of beer and a juke box. We found such a pub with an added attraction of a dart board. Here the rest of the evening was spent.
The day started with a walk along the river (although we couldn't see it) for a mile or so where it broke off and climbed around Whitley Castle and crossed the road. We then walked across fields until we came to the chapel where we were directed across the right path by a woman who had noticed us going astray. Across the fields we headed for the river again, which we followed all the way to Slaggyford which fortunately had a Post Office, into which, we raced to stock up with supplies.
After our brief rest, we started off again and made our way towards Merrry Know where we went slightly astray again. Mind you, the path disappears and we ended up on a track. Fortunately we had an OS map and were able to ascertain our position and remedy the situation.
Burnstones saw the start of the Maiden Way, a Roman footpath which we followed until Lambley Colliery where we collapsed for a while. Just as we were about to go, the rain came down so we donned waterproofs and continued. Unfortunately the raim only lasted about five minutes before the sun came out, so we had to stop again to remove them. We had a few miles of field walking with no real interest before we decided that lunch would be on the near side of Wain Rigg at Kellah Burn. Here we stopped and began lunch which consisted of Cheddar biscuits, ginger nuts, bread and cheese spread. Steve, in his usual amazing and inventive way had a sandwich of bread and cheddar biscuits - very nice actually.
After lunch, we climbed Wain Rigg and headed towards Thirlwall Castle, just visible in the distance. The castle itself is the start of the Roman Hadrians Wall, which we could follow all the way to the Youth Hostel. Except for a great deal of climbing and descending, the wall had nothing to offer, rather boring and tedious was the verdict reached by the party. We were glad when the road to the Youth Hostel came into view. (Hadrians Wall is much improved, especially this section.)
Half a mile down the hill bought us to the Hostel. Very nice and modern. The wardeness wouldn't sign us in until 8:30 so we had a wash and made our beds beforehand.
After signing in, we bought food for breakfast and went to the pub where we had a cooked meal and a drink. We stayed there for the rest of the evening and hobbled back to the Hostel very tired. A good nights sleep was needed by all.
Due to our comparatively short day, only seventeen miles, we were in a very happy mood and to prove it, we were dancing to Deep Purple while we did our duty of cleaning the dining room floor. We also danced while we out the brooms away.
Our walk started with a half mile climb to rejoin Hadrians Wall where we had left off the previous night. We followed this for a few miles, past the Sycamore Gap (tragically and inexpliably the tree was felled during 2023 by vandals) before breaking off across open country towards the Wark Forest. Going across the field we were beginning to be plagued by flies and on entering the forest it became worse, we tried running but that failed so we walked along trying to ignore them.
After walking for what seemed like miles we became convinced we were lost, but after a few hundred yards further on, we noticed a Pennine Way sign. Cheered considerably, we followed its direction across an open field towards the central forest. Once in this forest we decided that walking in the trees might relieve us of the flies - we were right and decided to rest a while undisturbed. Soon the two Sheffield lads came along and joined us. Being a suitable place, we decided upon lunch. Likewise our two friends began their lunch - the bread they used was in a worse condition than Steves had ever been!
After lunch, we set off and soon came to the end of the forest when it started to rain, donning waterproofs, we continued to the North part of the forest. After this came a few miles of farmland and numerous farmhouses before we came onto Ealingham Rigg from which we could see our objective.
A long road walk bought us to the town centre where all our needs were met; Toilets, shop and Post Office. A brief pause for supplies and we were off to the Hostel. The Hostel itself bore a striking resemblance to an undersized army barracks. Fortunately we were allowed in early but Tracy had to go to the wardens house which was further up the road to see if accommodation was available. It was and she was soon back.
A hearty meal of fish fingers and potatoes was soon demolished and the rest of the evening, except for eating an ice cream. was spent quietly reading and relaxing.
The morning started with us climbing a hill towards Blakelaw Farm and across fields to Hareshaw House when the official route was barred by barbed wire gates so a detour was needed, only a slight one, around the other side of the barn and across fields again to the main road where we all managed to walk in newly laid cement.
Across the road we had a climb to Lords Shaw via Lough Shaw and Deer Play. Due to the wind, no rest on the summmit was had and we proceeded towards Brownrigg Head without pausing for the detour to Padon Hill. Once on the head, we could see the forest which we would be traversing for five miles. Down to the forest gate our pace touched nearly five miles per hour (wind shields were needed). After walking in the forest for a mile or so, we stopped for lunch for a while by a stream. Lunch was luncheon meat sandwiches and ginger biscuits. Also we had a can of coke each - best meal we've done so far.
After lunch, we set off and singing songs and playing Garellis again we soon came to Blakehopeburnhaugh where we paused for toilets. The next stretch to Cottonshopeburn Foots farm was difficult and very muddy along the river bank. Also from this down to Byrness was equally difficult although all our efforts were rewarded as we saw the cafe only a few hundred yards distant.
Steve and I decideed on our final silly session fore the day and walked through the river (across the ford). We just about made it without our feet getting wet. Into the cafe and we ordered food and drink. Annoyingly we had a girl behind the bar who fancied herself as a mimic.
After tea and sandwiches we ambled along to the Hostel. Fortunately a shop was open opposite so we stocked up on our food supply and went to sit outside the hostel until it opened.
The information centre next door attracted us into its exhibition and viewing of leaflets. Unfortunately it had nothing to offer us in the way of information etc from Yetholm to Birmingham. We left and went to the Hostel which had by now, opened. Unfortunately there was no room for Tracy and so she went in search of a B&B. Steve and I had a wash, made our beds and had some food. We then sat in the common room reading. Tracy arrived and told us she was stopping around the corner in a private house.
We sat there for an hour or two before deciding to make some tea. In the kitchen we were all being silly by dancing around to keep warm. After this it was bedtime.
A wet and dull morning, with Steve having been sick all night did not put us in a very good mood, much less if we were walking all the way to the end.
The rain fortunately soon died off but climbing Byrness Hill soaked our trousers because of the wet ferns. We then had quite a long walk to Ravens Knowe and crossed to Ogre Hill where we could see the border fence. Once we arrived there we stopped for tea, sitting on the stile. After a few minutes two blokes came along and spent a few minutes trying to open the date. After finally succeeding they went through and noticed we were on the stile. Understandably they were upset and threatened to do the same to us on the next stile!
We set off after a short rest and stepped foot in Scotland for the first time. We were soon back out again and climbing Chew Green Roman Camp. Unfortunately we took a detour here in which we spent about two miles hiking to cover half a mile distance. Using the OS Map, we managed to right ourselves and get back on the path.
Lamb Hill was our next objective, but a hut at the base persuaded us top stop for lunch, not that Steve ate much. After lunch, we climbed the hill and then climbed Beefstand Hill and across to Windy Gyle. Russells cairn was the largest I have ever seen, unless the one on Snowdon counts as a cairn. From here the final part of our Pennine Way walking for the day went quickly and we soon arrived at the Border Gate. Walking down Clennel Street we somehow went the wrong way and had to climb a hill before we came to the farm and our overnight stop.
For only the second time on the trip I was able to have a bath - I've had a few showers as well! The evening meal was very nice, especially since we didn't need to cook it! The rest of the evening was spent watching television.
Our final days walking arrived at last. We set off after an excellent breakfast and made our way back to the border fence. From here, we followed the border fence for a number of miles. At Kings Seat the clouds began to come down and suddenly we were walking in mist, then rain, the worst rain we had ever had. It came down in bucketfuls. Very soon we were up to our knees in sodden peat, completely soaked and wishing it was over. This was suffered until Auchope cairn where the ground became slightly better.
We then had a very long climb to the Schill, although the speed was amazing due to our growing concern that the pub would be closed on our arrival in Kirk Yetholm. The ascent was hard and fast but only a slight rest was had before we proceeded down the other side towards the gate to Scotland once more.
From here, a fast pace was kept up. Steve and I breaking into a gallop at times all the way down to Burnhead Farm. From the farm, a fast walk along the road with the occasional song to keep us in high spirits took us most of the way. The first view of Kirk Yetholm was absolute bliss but with still half a mile to walk we broke into song once more, looking, as many people must, for the Border Hotel, the end. We finally saw it and made a final mad dash to the bar entrance. WE HAD DONE IT! The glorious end.
Staggering in, we were met by Tracy who told us free beer was to be had on production of the Wainwright Guide. (I doubt that is still true) Steve picked his up off the floor - he had just stamped on it for some unknown reason!
We sat in the pub for an hour or so, chatting to various Pennine Wayfarers until closing time during which, one lad we had met came in and was refused a drink. Uttering words we didn't quite understand, he was offered a pint by a fellow hiker who had bought several just before last orders - nice gesture and excellent planning.
After closing time, we were all ushered out into a small recess, none of us venturing out because of the rain. Here we stood for about an hour until we were told to go. Racing for cover we stood under a tree while Tracy went to the YH wardens house to ask for the key. Successful she told us we had to sign in before we could go to the hostel. This we did and made our way down. Shortly afterwards, June (Steves Mom) and Madelaine (Steves girfriend) arrived and after changing, we all went out for a meal. The meal was the nicest we had had in a long time. Afterwards we came back via the pub for a quick pint.
The trip home was delayed slightly while photographs were taken of us from various unusual angles. We finally set off, making a detour to Gretna Green, presumably for Steve and Madeline, and Tracy and I to get married. This wasn't to be, the Blacksmith had given all that up and gone Yak strangling in Cricklewood. (but has returned and indeed it is possible to get married there, although cheesy is an understatement!)
After a brief tour, we set off for home, pausing a number of times for rest and beverage, finally arriving about five o'clock. After saying our goodbyes, Tracy and I left the others to go to their respective homes and went into my house. We had finally finished. My parents took the fact that I had left with Steve and returned with Tracy in good spirit - actually, they were forewarned but even so!
I knew at this moment that Wainwright was correct when he said we would be better men for having completed the walk. Steve, Tracy and I are indeed better men for our accomplishment.
After having a week to recover, surprisingly or otherwise I realised the trip was extremely enjoyable. Obviously there were hardships and pain, but would it have been the same without them?
Memories I have and will cherish them for a long time. I am writing this in 2024, 47 years after doing the walk and, although a lot of the detail is hazy, I can still remember sections of it and some of the events described.
Some memories spring to mind immediately: UJ Kid with his rock, Big Al on his head, meeting up with, and having as companions, four very nice girls, the scenery, ever changing, was a beautiful thing to behold. The city seems so dull and boring compared to the hills and dales we visited. One of the great positives of a trip like that is you realise how many nice people there are in the world. Out on the hill, everyone helps everyone else, everyone is friendly and happy to stop for a chat, pass the time of day, enjoy a joke or a story. It's such a shame the rest of the world is not like that.
Above all, I would like to express my thanks and gratitude to all the people who were my companions for some or all of the journey. Too many to name them all but in particular, Steve, without who the trip would not have been possible. I hope I was as good a companion for him as he was for me. Also Tracy who is now my girlfriend and was a companion for most of the journey, a special thanks to her.
Finally, Sarah Jane of whom a joke appears early on in the report. Anyone who thinks it is even remotely true should hang their heads in shame, she was a lovely, fun girl and a pleasure to know.
2024 Update: Of all the people mentioned, I lost contact with them all, including Steve which was a great shame. One, however, has remained: Tracy. Our relationship didn't last, distance was a problem, she lived in Kent, I lived in Birmingham and shortly after the trip, left for University in Nottingham. We did, however, remain great friends and have met up over the years many times and I consider her to be one of my closest and best friends.
