Breakfast at 8am and away by 9am. Today we walked up to Lenz Rocks, initially over very awkward and rocky ground, then onto the glacier. A short way up we came to an old tyre which, it seems, is a remnant of a helicopter crash. We roped up here to get some practise walking as a roped group. Apparently the area is quite crevassed. I managed to get on the tail end of a group of five which suited me - it's the best position as you get to control the rope in front and there's nothing to worry about behind. The downside of roped walking, of course, is that your pace is dictated.

Onward and upward on a 40 degree slope, on which we made good progress towards the rocks. We did reflect that, on summit day, all of this would be in the dark. Finally after about four hours we arrived at Lenz Rocks. It is around 4,200m so great for acclimatisation. We stopped for food and general chilling. I'm pretty sure I fell asleep for a while - I needed it after my rubbish night last night.

Too soon the call was made to leave, but instead of going down, we went up! Turns out we were going to a place to practise ice-axe arrest. Waterproofs and gloves on, we each took a turn, then that was it! A lot of faff for very little in my opinion - everyone knew what to do - this is quite an experienced group. One lad, unfortunately managed to cut his thumb due to not wearing gloves - silly chap!

From there it was back down. Two teams roped up, mine didn't until we got to the tyre again. This time I was in the lead which was also good because it meant I could dictate the (slow) pace. Down through the crevasse area - previously not a problem as it was frozen, but now in the afternoon sun, became more of an issue.

We unroped at the bottom of the danger zone and made our way to the edge of the glacier. Crampons off for the final, very tiring, rocky scramble to the huts. I was glad to be finished, my legs hurt and I felt tired.

We discovered later that American Mike actually fell into a crevasse, luckily only up to his waist. The glacier at the time we were coming down (3-4pm) became something of a river, so care was needed to avoid the fragile ice.

Lunch was 5pm, but I wasn't even a bit hungry. I did manage to force down some soup and bread, but couldn't finish it. The main course looked like courgettes and onions - I definitely couldn't manage that! I decided to go for a lie down, but didn't want to sleep otherwise sleeping tonight will be even harder, so wrote my diary and read.

Physically I felt quite drained today, but I think most people are - just about everyone is sleeping. Tomorrow is a rest day and I plan to do just that. Mentally I feel a little apprehensive as today we did about 1/3 of the height that we will do on summit day and I feel drained. Apparently the pace was quick so on summit day we will go slower I think which will be something.

During the evening briefing, after a meal of spaghetti bolognese, of which, I managed the meat and a little spag, but didn't really want it, we were told that tomorrow (Friday) would be our best bet for a summit attempt, although the final decision would be made around 11pm with a possible departure at midnight. Apparently the weather that we have enjoyed so far (warm, sunny and clear blue skies) is coming to an end and thunderstorms are expected over the weekend.

I slept quite well, only waking once for a pee. By 7:30am I had to get up.