After a typical breakfast we aimed to leave around 10am for a walk up to the West Ridge. I decided to take everything that I was planning to take on Summit Day to see how I got on. Full Boots and Stellar Trousers. I did put on my waterproof leggings but rapidly overheated so by the time we got down to the Glacier I took them off again. I just had my Berghaus long sleeved on top on which seemed warm enough.

We set off roped up over the melting glacier with visibility coming and going. It was quite a delicate route choice to avoid the crevasses and we seemed to make slow progress. The visibility deteriorated as we stopped for a break. Stuart mentioned that as Jelly Baby Manager I should produce the goods, well produce I did, much to his surprise. Off we went for a short while before we stopped, ready to turn around. I divvied out another round of Jelly Babies and was preparing to eat some food when the call came to leave in two minutes!

As the weather was decidely grim I put on my waterproof leggings which is a hassle as the harness needs to come off. Not quite ready, people started moving off as it had now started raining. I hadn't quite got my sac on but managed as we moved, others started moving, carrying theirs, the rain now coming harder, it was almost like a panic which surprised me as the group is very experienced. Apparently someone had called that there was lightning and there was a fear that we would get struck. At one point, Stuart said to Peter about putting his waterproofs. Normally pretty calm, his response was 'F*** that, I want to get off the mountain'.

As we descended rapidly, rope protocol fell apart with slack rope everywhere, some still carrying their rucsacs, the rain fell heavier with some thunder and lightning. Periodically we crouched down. At the first stop, I reached for my gloves as it had now chilled considerably. I also stowed my poles - they were useless anyway at the rate of descent. The rain turned to hail and people later reported their hair standing on end, although not having any, did not present me with any such problem! I was surprised and a little disappointed by the reaction of the group - if they were so concerned about lightning, but clearly not so concerned about crevasses, why did we stay roped up? Surely a few minutes to get ourselves organised would have been better?

Finally, the end of the glacier arrived and a temporary lull in the rain/hail. Crampons off, we made our way quickly up the final climb and straight into the hut.

Thankful to be back, we started removing wet gear. Clearly there would not be enough space to dry clothes and with some assistance from Aisling, I rigged up a clothes line which increased our drying capability no end.

Lunch was next on the agenda, being, as usual, soup followed by rice and peas. I managed the soup but lost interest about half way through the rice.

For part of the afternoon I laid my kit out to dry but the rain Gods were not on my side so it soon came in, although, apart from the rucsac and gloves, everything else was dry. Surprisingly the gloves were saturated but I hadn't noticed my hands feeling cold so full marks to Rab for that. The rest of the afternoon was slowly sorting kit, reading and listening to music.

As the days move on, there is an urgency for the weather to clear to what it was a few days ago. Everyone wants a shot at the summit, no-one wants to fail because of bad weather. If I can't stand on the summit I want it to be because I am physically incapable rather than the weather being bad. Having said that, I will be giving everything I can to get to the top! Looking at the team, everyone is strong, there are no weak climbers at all. Psyching up for an attempt is difficult because we just don't know when we will be going. Today is Saturday so realistically we have Sunday night/Monday or Monday night/Tuesday to go. If we left it until Tuesday night/Wednesday, that would mean we would have to go from the summit to Piatigorsk on one day which is technically possible, but realistically unlikely.

I feel I am on the cusp of getting a cold, not surprisingly given we are at altitude and there are lots of teams coming and going. I really don't need it.

Of the things I left at Base Camp, I should have bought more wet-wipes and the Lemsips. I don't really know why I didn't except to say that the promised 'showers' made me think I wouldn't need wet-wipes but of course they are useful for all sorts of things. Luckily(?) I have a pack but they won't last more than anbother day or two at most. I can use my small towel soaked in water for a wash and I still have some soap left for a more comprehensive wash.

Currently I miss; good coffee, an armchair, chips, being able to walk in a straight line (i.e. not having to avoid rocks), being able to go to the toilet easily and relaxed, not having to squat over a hole in the ground.

Similar evening of chicken and rice with relaxing and watching the ever present TV. The film of the evening was Terminator 2 dubbed into Russian! Not too early to bed (9:30) as we don't have an early start in the morning. The current plan is a Summit attempt tomorrow (Sunday) night.